Upper Mustang Trek – 11 Days

Upper Mustang has a long and interesting history. Ancient caves found across the region show that people lived here thousands of years ago, but little is known about their lives. Written records from Tibet and Ladakh mention Lo (Mustang) as early as the 7th century AD.

Mustang became an independent kingdom in 1380 when Ame Pal, a warrior and Buddhist from Western Tibet, built a strong fortress called Ketcher Dzong. With the help of his sons, he defeated local rulers and founded the walled city of Lo Manthang. The last king, Jigmi Palbar Bista, is said to be the 21st direct descendant of Ame Pal. Ame Pal’s son, Angun Sangpo, played an important role in developing the kingdom. He, along with his minister Kalun Sangpo, built the city walls and monasteries. To bring religious teachings, they invited Ngorchen Kunga Sangpo, a respected master of the Sakya Buddhist sect, from Tibet. These three, Angun, Kalun, and Ngorchen, are remembered as the “Three Holies”, who shaped both the spiritual and cultural foundation of Mustang.

And since the passes to the north were easy to cross, Mustang became an important trade route between Tibet and India. Traders and teachers traveled through Lo, which helped the local culture and economy grow. But its wealth also attracted bandits, so the people locked the city gates of Lo Manthang every night. It is a custom followed until recent times. In the late 1500s, Mustang came under Ladakh’s control, and by the 1760s, it became a vassal of Jumla in western Nepal. Later, King Prithvi Narayan Shah of Gorkha conquered Jumla and its vassals, including Mustang, while uniting Nepal. Though Mustang became part of Nepal, it kept some independence in local matters. In 1862, however, the Thakali people took control of the salt trade along the Kali Gandaki River, which weakened Mustang’s economy.

In 1951, when Nepal became a constitutional monarchy, Mustang was made a district, and the King of Lo lost much of his power. After China took over Tibet in 1959, Mustang became a base for Khampa fighters resisting Chinese rule. Because of this, the Nepalese government declared Mustang a restricted area. Lower Mustang opened to tourists later, but Upper Mustang remained closed and isolated. Finally, after Nepal’s 1990 revolution, the government decided to allow limited tourism in Upper Mustang. In 1992, the first foreign trekking groups entered the region, and Upper Mustang was included in the Annapurna Conservation Area. Since then, it has gradually opened up, while still protecting its unique culture and traditions.

Lo-Manthang (Kingdom of Himalaya)

Lo-Manthang is an isolated Tibetan settlement at an elevation of 3,800 m above sea level. In the Tibetan language, Lo Manthang means “the walled city”. True to its name, the entire village is surrounded by tall walls that give it a mystical and ancient feel. The area is also the capital city of Upper Mustang, which was once a medieval kingdom in the Himalayas. Founded by Ame Pal in 1380, the kingdom was a military, economic, and religious hub in the 15th and 16th centuries.

Lo Manthang is also known for its royal history, as the tradition of having a king still continues here ( As of now, there is no official king of Lo Manthang, as the Monarchy was abolished by the Government of Nepal in 2008. The last king was Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista). In Lo Manthang, travelers can explore narrow lanes filled with traditional houses and centuries-old monasteries, which make the place deeply spiritual. The people of the city proudly follow their age-old customs and culture. Tiji Festival is the main festival celebrated here. It is the vibrant celebration filled with rituals, dances, and prayers that reflect the unique heritage of Upper Mustang.

Rainshadow with Desert-like landscapes

Upper Mustang lies in the rain shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountains. It means it receives very little rainfall, which makes it possible to visit even during the monsoon season. The land is dry and looks like a desert, with rocks, deep valleys, canyons, and gullies. This feature gives it a look very different from other parts of Nepal.
Even though the area is dry, it is rich in history and culture. There are old Buddhist monasteries, small settlements, and sky caves where people lived long ago. In these caves, archaeologists found mummified human remains, Buddhist relics, and artifacts that are over 2,000 years old. While the northern part is dry, the southern slopes of the Himalayas have green forests and wildlife. People in Upper Mustang live in a way that suits this dry and rugged land.

Kali Gandaki Gorge & River with Shaligram

Between the mountains Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I lies the Kali Gandaki Gorge. It was carved by the Kali Gandaki River over millions of years. As the mountains grew, the river cut through the rocks and made the deep Kali Gandaki Gorge. It is the deepest gorge in the world, even deeper than the Grand Canyon in the USA. The gorge is over 5,500 m from peak to river, making it an amazing natural wonder. The Kali Gandaki Gorge is part of an old pilgrimage route to Muktinath, a sacred temple visited by both Hindu and Buddhist travelers.

Likewise, the Kali Gandaki River is very old and existed even before the Himalayas were formed. The river is named after the Goddess Kali and is considered holy by Hindus. Along the river, people search for Shaligram. Shaligram is a fossilized stone that is believed to represent Lord Vishnu. Many pilgrims and devotees collect them for worship. The stones vary in size, shape, and markings, and each one is considered unique and holy. The river’s deep waters and strong current naturally bring these stones from the surrounding mountains.

Tibetan Buddhist Culture Exploration & Tiji Festival

The culture of Upper Mustang is deeply linked to Tibetan Buddhism. The people, called Lobas, follow the Sakya sect of Buddhism. In every village, you can see monasteries, chortens (stone stupas), mani walls with prayers, and colorful flags that spread blessings in the wind. Long ago, people practiced the Bon religion, but it was replaced by Buddhism. The walled city of Lo-Manthang has three famous monasteries: Jhampa Gompa (built in 1387), Thupchen Gompa (15th century), and Chhoede Gompa (1757). These monasteries are full of ancient paintings, statues, and art. Chhoede Gompa also has a school where young monks study, and Tibetan healing practices with herbal medicine (Amchi) are still used today.

The most important festival celebrated here is Tiji, which means “prayer for world peace”. It takes place every May in Lo-Manthang and lasts three days. The festival tells the story of Dorje Sonam, a Buddhist figure who defeated a demon called Ma Tam Ru Ta that brought suffering and storms. During Tiji, monks from Chhoede Gompa perform ritual dances that show the battle between Dorje Sonam and the demon. On the first day, monks perform the Tsa Chham dance that shows a demon creating harm, the second day dance (Nga Chham dance) shows the birth of Dorje Sonam and his fight with the demon, and the third day ritual (Rha Chham) shows the demon’s defeat. People from across Mustang gather to watch, pray, and celebrate. Villagers help by providing wood and other needs. It becomes a big community event and one of the biggest cultural highlights of the region.

During the Upper Mustang Trek, you can stay in tea houses, guesthouses, or small hotels. Tea houses are the most popular because they are affordable.

The accommodations at the tea houses are comfortable and clean. You will be given pillows, blankets, bedsheets, and mattresses. Remember that during peak season, you mostly have a single room with a twin bed, meaning you might have to share your room with other trekkers. Only a few accommodations have rooms with attached toilets and bathrooms, so you may have to share a bathroom and sink with other trekkers. However, they are cleaned daily, so you don’t have to worry about hygiene.

Nutritious food is essential for trekkers during their treks, so you will be provided with three meals a day: breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Most eateries offer local Nepali foods and some Western food options. Local Nepal foods include traditional Dal, Bhat, and Curry, and for Western foods, common menus include Pizzas, Burgers, Dumplings, Soups, Stews, spaghetti, and Macaroni. However, Western foods are slightly more expensive than local Nepali foods because they are imported from the cities. At the same time, local Nepali food and spices are mainly produced from the local farmland, so they are cheaper than Western foods.

The Upper Mustang Trek usually takes about 10 to 14 days to complete, depending on your pace and the route you choose. The distance is around 125 kilometers, which means walking around 6 hours per day. To start the trek, you must first reach the Pokhara in Nepal. From Pokhara, you take a short flight to Jomsom, which is the starting point of the trek.

From Jomsom, you walk through beautiful landscapes and traditional villages until you reach the ancient town of Lo Manthang, The main highlight of the trek. After exploring Lo Manthang, you return to Jomsom by the same route and then fly back to Pokhara.

Travel insurance is crucial for any treks in Nepal, including the Upper Mustang trek. Who knows what happens next in your life? Thus, buy travel insurance from a reputable company that will be in your service 24/7. Consider purchasing travel insurance that covers medical expenses, trip cancellation or interruption, and emergency evacuation. Moreover, make sure to buy insurance from your country, as no company in Nepal does insurance for foreigners. The insurance cost is USD 200-300 and varies depending on trip destination, coverage, and age.

Classic Route (Jomsom → Lo Manthang)

The Classic Route is the most popular and main trail to Upper Mustang. It starts from Jomsom, which is accessible by a short flight from Pokhara. Along the way, you pass through traditional villages like Kagbeni, Chele, and Tsarang, along the Kali Gandaki Valley, cross arid desert landscapes, and experience Tibetan-influenced culture before reaching Lo Manthang, the walled capital. The total trekking distance is 110~120 km round trip and takes 10–14 days to complete.

• Pros: Well-maintained trail, easy logistics
• Cons: Can be crowded during peak season. An Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit is required

Western Route (Ghemi → Lo Manthang via Dhakmar & Ghar Gompa)

The Western Route is less traveled and more adventurous than the classic route. It leaves the Classic Route at Ghemi and goes through Dhakmar and the historic Ghar Gompa before reaching Lo Manthang. This path passes dramatic cliffs, hidden caves, and remote, barren deserts. You will see fewer trekkers along the way. The total trekking distance is 115–125 km round trip, and the duration is 14–16 days.

• Pros: Less crowded, more adventurous
• Cons: Longer and harder trek, fewer teahouses

Eastern Route (Lo Manthang → Chhusang via Yara & Tangge)

The Eastern Route is mainly used for returning from Lo Manthang and is suitable for trekkers who want to explore more remote villages. This route passes through lesser-known villages like Yara and Tangge and offers a deeper look into Mustang’s high desert landscapes. Along the way, you can visit cliff-side villages, high desert canyons, ancient monasteries, and cultural sites. The trekking distance is 120–130 km round trip, and the total duration is 12–15 days.

• Pros: Very scenic, off-the-beaten-path, avoids crowds
• Cons: Needs careful planning for food, water, and accommodation; higher altitude exposure

Combined Loop Route (Classic + Western + Eastern)

The Combined Loop Route offers the most complete experience of Upper Mustang. Trekkers usually go to Lo Manthang via the Classic and Western Routes and return via the Eastern Route. This loop covers the most extensive variety of landscapes, villages, monasteries, and cultural experiences of the Mustang region. You will visit Kagbeni, Ghemi, Dhakmar, Tsarang, Yara, Tangge, and the walled city of Lo Manthang. The total distance is 135–145 km and takes 14–16 days.

• Pros: Most diverse and immersive, great for photography and cultural exploration
• Cons: Requires good fitness, proper acclimatization, careful planning for accommodation and logistics

Summary Table of Upper Mustang Trek Routes:

Airway and ground transportation are two different options to get to Jomsom from Pokhara. Flight is the easiest way to get to Jomsom, the starting point of the trek. You’ll fly from Pokhara to Jomsom, which takes 20 minutes, making it one of the quickest options. However, the option is expensive, which could be unsuitable for travelers with tight budgets.
For ground transportation, travelers can choose a jeep or private vehicle. It takes 6-7 hours to get to Jomsom from Pokhara by jeep, costing USD 50 – USD 65. Jeeps are less expensive than flights but time-consuming and less comfortable.

The Upper Mustang Trek requires two permits. Solo trekkers cannot get the permit, and there must at least be a group of two trekkers. Also, they must apply through a registered trekking agency. The necessary permits for the trek are as follows:

Restricted Upper Mustang Area Permit

Upper Mustang falls in a restricted area of Nepal that requires a special permit. Without a special permit, you cannot access the region above Kagbeni. There is a restricted area permit check post at the exit of the Kagbeni village, where you must show the permit for access. The Immigration Office in Kathmandu and Pokhara issues this special permit through registered local trekking agencies.

• The restricted area permit costs USD 500 per person for the first ten days. After that, it costs an additional USD 50 per day.

Annapurna Conservation Area Entry Permit (ACAP)

The second required for the Upper Mustang Trek is the Annapurna Conservation Area Entry Permit. The region lies within the Annapurna Conservation Area of the Annapurna region. The conservation area is a natural habitat of diverse flora, fauna, and ecosystems. Some significant cultural heritages also lie in this protected area. Hence, trekkers must obtain an entry permit to access the area. Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu and Pokhara issues ACAP for trekking.

• ACAP costs NPR 1000 per person for SAARC nationals and NPR 3000 per person for non-SAARC nationals.

Preparing well for the Upper Mustang is essential because of the region’s remote location, high altitude, and challenging terrain. The trek combines a unique yet demanding landscape requiring physical and mental preparedness. Adequate preparation ensures a safe and smooth journey. Thus, here are basic tips to prepare for the trek:

Physical Preparation

As the journey is quite demanding, physical exercise is crucial. Engaging in the exercise a few months before the trip can significantly help. Train yourself for cardiovascular exercise, which includes running, cycling, and hiking. For strength training, focus on core, leg, and back exercises like squats, lunges, and planks. Likewise, spend time hiking at a higher elevation to prepare yourself for a higher altitude.

Mental preparation

Being mentally prepared is equally important as being physically prepared. Understand the trek’s challenges, like its limited facilities, unpredictable weather, and long walking hours. Likewise, prepare mentally for the upcoming challenges you may face during your trek. Moreover, mindfulness can be practiced by meditating and deep breathing, as this helps to manage stress and fatigue during the trek.

The Upper Mustang Trek is one of a unique journey close to the Himalayas. It takes you away from modern civilization into the prehistoric settlements of Nepal. The journey reflects an entirely different part of the country hidden from the rest of the world and Nepal’s last forbidden Kingdom. Its varying trails go from dense forests to alpine meadows and winding high-altitude desert landscapes. En route, you will come across deep windswept valleys, red cliffs, and spectacular multicolor rock formations. The scenic trans-Himalayan beauty of the Upper Mustang Trek is not the only reason to take this journey. Mustang Trek is a time travel into the mysterious land of Lo Manthang and the ancient village of Kagbeni.

The region houses monuments and artifacts that date several hundred years back. The region is also close to the Tibet and its border. Hence, you can see the massive influence of the Tibetan culture here. You will also explore several ancient hill caves, monasteries, gompas, and other monuments while on the trek. It offers an enriching cultural and religious immersion of the region. Over and above that, if you are craving something unique and momentous, the Upper Mustang Trek is the perfect option. The trek blends adventure, culture, and spirituality with a hint of mystery. Hence, Upper Mustang is one of the most fascinating places to visit in Nepal.

Bodywear

• Clothing Layers
•  Trekking Pants
• Thermal Underwear
•  Rain Jacket or Poncho
• Hat or Beanie
• Down or Fleece Jacket
• Gloves
• Buff or Scarf
• Long-sleeved trekking shirts

Footwear

• Trekking Boots
• Moisture-wicking shocks

Backpack

• Large backpack with a rain cover
• Daypack to carry essential items during the day

Electronics

• Camera and extra batteries
• Portable chargers for electronic devices
• Powerbank

Others

• Trekking Pole
• Refillable water bottle with water purification tablet
• Sunscreen and lip balm
•  Insect repellent
• Cash
• Necessary documents
• Personal accessories